More up-to-date software that (I think) is a bit easier to use (but not without its own quirks).Just like with regular digital cameras, this means in the future you could get different or better profiles. The ability to use calibrated camera profiles in Lightroom on the RAW data (which is something that can’t be done with TIFFs).The advantages of the Vuescan DNG method are: OK, with those limitations in mind, let’s begin…Ģ Set Document Type to “ Film” (if available) and Film Type to “ Positive Film”ģ Set the Destination Image Type to 48-bit color (if working with black and white, this can be set to 16-bit Grayscale)īw-epson-wetmount002epson-bw-wetmount.jpg 2500×2335 1.29 MBĪlso, folks on the private Facebook group have been asking for my take on the Vuescan RAW DNG workflow with Negative Lab Pro, vs this Epson Scan workflow. Most of the time, this shouldn’t be a problem, but in some situations, it could make editing later a tad more difficult. There’s no way to adjust the exposure.This is big downside, as the Digital ICE in Epson Scan quite good - the best I’ve seen for Epson scanners. With this method, you cannot use Digital ICE.This will give you an uncorrected and un-inverted scan of the negative (exactly what we wanted!).īefore you do this, though, you should know that there are two downsides to this method: In Epson Scan, it’s possible to tell the software that you are scanning Positive Slide Film (so it doesn’t try to convert the negative) and then simply turn off all color corrections. METHOD 1: No Color Correction (but no ICE, either) There is more than one way to do this in Epson Scan (and later in Negative Lab Pro), so I’ll give you a few options along with things to consider. This way, you can separate the tasks of scanning the film and editing the film, all your edits can easily be updated in the future because they are non-destructive, and you can get much better colors and tones out of your film scans. And then we will use the Negative Lab Pro plugin in Lightroom for converting and editing the negative. So our goal is use Epson Scan to get an untouched, unconverted scan of the negative. (Also, it has the best Digital ICE integration I’ve seen for Epson scanners - even better than Vuescan’s implementation). You want to spend as little time in this utility as possible!īUT again, the underlying scans of the negative are perfectly good. The software and UI are outdated and difficult to use - The original Epson Scan came out 17 years ago (and the latest update is already 5 years old).That’s the last thing you want to do when you are scanning 100s of film negatives. Any conversion or edits you make in Epson Scan are destructive… once you hit that “scan” button, if you later decide you want to go back and change the underlying settings, you would need to drag out that negative and re-scan it. Once you hit that “scan” button, there’s no going back. It’s so much more efficient and more enjoyable to capture all of the underlying image first, and then be able to edit your negatives as a group anytime you want. Having to edit and adjust each image preview before capture is exactly the WRONG way to be doing it. While Epson Scan can do a good job working with your scanner to capture the underlying film negative, you may have found that there are some MAJOR headaches with a workflow that fully relies on Epson Scan: (If not you can always download it along with the drivers you need from the Epson website for your particular Epson scanner, like this Epson V600 downloads page.) If you’re using an Epson scanner to scan your color or black and white film negatives, chances are that your scanner came with the “Epson Scan” software.
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